Tricot 101
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Why Knitting is Good for your Brain
Not only is knitting a fun and enriching activity, but it also offers many other benefits! It can help reduce stress, improve cognitive function, and even lower blood pressure.
1️⃣ Sitting still to knit reduces your heart rate and lowers your blood pressure after a few minutes.
2️⃣ The rhythmic, repetitive motion and relaxation from knitting has the same benefits to your mind and body as a meditation session
3️⃣ Knitting attenuate symptoms of anxiety, stress, and depression
4️⃣ Knitting helps improve hand-eye coordination and can help people with diseases like Parkinson’s improve their motor functions.
5️⃣ Knitting slows cognitive decline. Seniors who engage in crafts as knitting are about 30-50% less likely to have a “mild cognitive impairment” than those who don’t.
6️⃣ Knitting helps prevent arthritis: gently using your fingers builds up their cartilage, making it stronger, instead of wearing it down.
Plus, you'll get to create beautiful and useful items that you can keep or give as gifts.
Want to learn to knit? Sign up today for our knitting classes in Montreal area and Quebec City!
Knitting books and inspiring literature
Like yarn, books are hard for most knitters to resist. I find the tactile and visual qualities of printed books to be comforting and inspiring and have a large library of home decorating and gardening titles, beautiful vintage volumes and, of course, an absurd number of knitting, crochet, craft, and textile books.
In the days before Youtube and online classes, books were a primary source of needlework knowledge. If you didn’t have a mother, grandmother, aunt, uncle, or a clever friend to teach you yarny skills -- or you didn’t live in a place where crafts were part of the local culture, or a great local yarn shop -- you referred to printed matter to learn a new technique or stitch (or refresh your memory on something you needed to brush up on). According to the pioneering knitting historian Richard Rutt’s seminal History of Handknitting (1987), knitting manuals were first published in the mid-1800s and were hugely popular throughout the Victorian era. Books and magazines continued to be important sources of information, techniques, and patterns up through World War 2 – and interesting textile titles are still being published.
My personal knitting reference library includes classics like Elizbeth Zimmerman’s Knitting Without Tears (1973), Barbara Walker’s Stitch Treasuries (1968-1972), June Hemmons Hiatt’s classic The Principles of Knitting (1989, revised in 2012). Some of my most referred-to volumes for color inspo are Kaffe Fassett’s Glorious Knits (1985) and Glorious Color (1988) and Alice Starmore’s Book of Fair Isle Knitting (1988). A resurgence of knitting and craft publishing in the early 2000s was spurred by the post 9/11 knitting boom. This gave birth to the popularity of authors like Stephanie Pearl-McPhee and Clara Parkes (both known for their blend of knitting know-how and dry wit), and beautifully photographed pattern collections including Norah Gaughan’s Knitting Nature (2006), Nickie Epstein’s Knitting on the Edge series (Sixth & Spring Books), Interweave Press’s “Style” series (Color Style, Lace Style, Bag Style, etc.) and the gorgeous editions published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang under the guidance of Melanie Falick.
Today we can Google how to do a cable cast on, search for patterns on Ravelry and scroll Instagram and Pinterest for inspiration, but despite that, a lot of us (raises hand) continue to add to our knitting libraries. Still a sucker for a nice pattern compilation – recent purchases include Laine’s 52 Weeks of Shawls and Aimee Gille’s Neon and Neutrals, also published by Laine - I’ve noticed a trend away from purely pattern books in recent years. From Barbara Levine’s 2016 fascinating photography edition People Knitting (full of vintage photos of men and women – including the abolitionist Sojourner Truth - knitting) to Rachael Herron’s memoir A Life in Stitches (chronicling how knitting helped her “stitch” her life back together), the knitting genre has evolved to include books about the business of yarn: Shelly Brander’s 2021 Move the Needle – Yarns from an Unlikely Entrepreneur; craftivism: Dee Ann Eisner’s A Call to Needles (2022); diversity in the craft world: This Long Thread by Jen Hewett; spirituality: The Mindfulness of Knitting by Rachael Matthews (2020), and self-care: Brandi Cheyenne Harper’s Knitting for Radical Self-Care (2022).
Two recent publications are by successful authors – both knitters - who document how knitting helped them navigate difficult times in their lives, each one in a uniquely personal way. An Italian economist and life-long knitter, Loretta Napoleoni wrote The Power of Knitting (2020) after a major life change. One might wonder why the author of several best-selling books on global economics, terrorism and social change would choose to write a knitting memoir. Napoleoni charmingly weaves knitting history (men were the first knitters), with her own professional and knitting journey and a hopeful message about the international connections, and healing powers, the knitting community provides. She includes a handful of cute patterns that tie in with her personal knitting story.
Peggy Orenstein, the author of Boys and Sex and Girls and Sex, among other writings about sexuality in an increasingly complicated world, chose to write her knitting memoir, Unraveling, during the global Covid pandemic, when she had time on her hands to pursue her dream of chronicling the making of a garment from sheep to sweater. Like Napoleoni, Orenstein interweaves issues that are important to her - feminism, history and concerns about climate change - with her own personal story. She documents the challenges of learning how to shear a sheep, spin and dye the wool and knit what she calls “the world’s ugliest sweater”, all during a time when virtually everything was in a state of lockdown. And, like Napoleoni, her writing style is engaging, witty and informative.
Have you discovered new authors through this post? Please share this article with other knitting and book lovers!
By Karin Strom 4/30/2023
Spring Ahead
Spring is officially here, at last! While it was a fairly mild winter in some places, it was relentless in others – in the Northeastern US the daffodils are blooming a full month early, while on the other coast, California had one of its highest snowfall totals in recorded history. No matter where you live, though, it seems like the changes Spring brings are always welcome, and full of inspiration.
What does the new season mean for knitters? Do you knit less in the Spring and Summer, or do longer days mean more knitting time? Are you confused about what to knit during the transition time between Winter and Spring? Whatever your knitting habits are, there is plenty of inspiration out there, from Mother Nature, the realms of fashion and popular culture – and from the world of Biscotte Yarns!
Have you heard about Dopamine Dressing? It’s the concept of choosing clothing that boosts our mood and brings us joy and is often associated with vivid colors and rich textures. If you watched any of the recent awards shows, you probably noticed a lot of strong colors: Janelle Monae’s brilliant orange Vera Wang skirt and Stephanie Hso’s luscious pink strapless Valentino gown at the Oscars; Anya Taylor-Joy’s yellow column skirt and cropped top designed by Dior at the Golden Globes. And on the runways, Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2023 collection featured neon green and royal blue – and lots of knit and crochet. In fact, many high-fashion designers included saturated colors and textured knits in their Spring and Summer collections. https://thegloss.ie/how-to-wear-the-dopamine-dressing-trend/ (Don’t worry: Even if you’re not that into brights, what Dopamine Dressing comes down to is wearing – and making - whatever makes you feel good.) As Zandra Rhodes so wisely said, “To me, color gives confidence.”
How does this filter down to what we have on our needles now? If you search the hashtag #dopaminedressing on Instagram, you’ll find lots of fun bright knits. (One of my favorite knitting-inspo influencers is @k.n.i.t. – always a lot of creativity from yarn and fashion trendsetters.) Biscotte Yarns is featuring some dopamine-inducing designs for Spring – and some great yarns and projects for the in-between seasons.
One yarn we love for transitional knitting is Algua Marina, an innovative bland of silk and seacell. (Seacell is a silky fiber made from seaweed and eucalyptus fibers. It is hypoallergenic and very gentle on the skin. Algae are harvested in sparsely populated fjords of Iceland, in places where there is no waste or pollution from ships. Combined with silk, it creates a luxurious and shiny thread.) It’s perfect for smaller projects you can tuck into your bag and take on Spring break.
Granola is another year-round fave yarn base from Louise Robert Design. The Merino/hemp combo gives a rustic crunchy texture and is offered in a signature sophisticated palette. Look for a dopamine-hued colorwork cowl by Jill Tamminen coming out in April.
For knitting right now: Spring skiers, there is still time to whip up a trendy balaclava (passe-montagne in French) for those late-season runs. Louise Robert’s balaclava, neck warmer and wrist warmer set knits up quickly in Noro’s perfect transitional blend of cotton, silk and polyamide, ENKA. Each set takes only one ball, and it comes in a variety of dopamine-inducing rainbow shades.
Wrist warmers are always a fun quick project and are a great way to add a pop of color to your Spring wardrobe with a minimum investment of time (or money). Myriam Garçon’s Octothorpe fingerless mitts combine stockinette and garter stitch with some sharp geometric details.
Next month we’ll present more knitting inspo and trends. Meanwhile, please let us know what you’d like to learn about and where you get your inspiration from!
- Karin Strom
Knitting needles : wooden or metal ?
METAL NEEDLES ⚙️ THE PROS AND CONS
The advantage of metal knitting needles is their strength and durability.
Also, since the stitches slide nicely on their surface, tight-knitters will often prefer them! The downside of metal needles is that they can be heavier and produce a rattling sound, especially with large-diameter needles.
In the metal needles category, you will find aluminum and stainless steel.
Aluminum has more surface friction than steel. Stainless steel needles are smoothest that any other metals, providing a surface where stitches will glide effortlessly.
WOOD NEEDLES 🪵 THE PROS AND CONS
Since wooden knitting needles produce more friction, they can be convenient for knitting slippery yarns like silk.
Loose knitters will also prefer wooden needles for this reason. They are also lighter and quieter than metal needles. However, they are more fragile and require more care than metal needles.
In the wood category, you will find needles made from different species of trees and also bamboo.
Bamboo needles are often more affordable but are still more fragile, so be careful not to sit on them! 🙊
What is yarn pilling?
What is yarn pilling?
Pilling is the formation of fuzzy balls on the surface of knitwear, which is caused by how the yarn is made. To create yarn, numerous fibers are spun in a long thread.
Wearing and washing a garment can cause loose fibers to push out from the surface and form into a small ball or pill.
Friction is the main factor in causing yarn pilling.
Therefore you will often see pilling under the arm of a sweater or behind the heel of socks.
While certain types of yarns or stitch choice can result in less pilling or delayed pilling, this will happen to just about every yarn (natural or synthetic)!
Fortunately, there is an easy way to extend the life of all your favorite knitwear by using tools as the Gleener Fabric Shaver & Lint Brush.
The Gleener requires no batteries or electricity and will help to get rid of pilling, lint and pet hair from all fabrics (not only your knitwear!).
How did Louise Robert go from hobby knitter to yarn company owner with 5 local yarn shops?
Biscotte & Cie has grown from a small home hand-dyeing business to a thriving enterprise with 3 hand-dyed yarn lines - Biscotte Yarns, Louise Robert Collection and PatricKnits - which creates an average of 55 knitting patterns and crochet designs per year.
In addition to producing exquisite hand-dyed yarns and patterns, Louise Robert and her husband Patrick are proprietors of five yarns shops – 4 in Canada and 1 in the US, in Northvale, NJ. How do they do it all? I chatted with Louise to learn a bit more about Biscotte Yarns and how it has grown.
First of all, did you choose the name Biscotte because of your love of biscuits?!
No, Biscotte was actually the name of my cat at the time I started my blog Biscottecie.com/blogue. I was at home with young kids and began dabbling with dyeing yarn for fun and sharing that and my knitting projects on the blog.
How did that evolve into the business it is today?
I started by dyeing yarn, mostly self-striping yarns, in 2007, under the name Biscotte & Cie. I was a young mother, so I was attracted to happy and bright colors, and movie and cartoon characters. As I got into more sophisticated palettes and combinations, my husband Patrick suggested that I launch a new collection under my name, Louise Robert Yarns. And, of course, he had to add his own line, PatricKnits!
Dyeing yarn led me to write patterns to show what could be knitted with these yarns. And, voila, this "hobby" has grown into a company that now has 5 shops, 2 websites and a head office in Canada attached to a dye workshop.
How has your designing changed over the years?
Early in my design career, I wrote a lot of sock patterns. I had a lot of fun playing with the shape of the socks to showcase the stripes of our self-striping yarns. Since socks are worn inside shoes, I felt less intimidated to write this type of pattern. Socks are not a "serious" garment: They can be silly and leave room for imagination, and that's okay! Plus, they are small projects that can be done quickly, which is always a plus when you start knitting.
During this time, I also taught knitting, which had an impact on my pattern writing. It led me to be more detailed in my explanations, knowing what knitters might have trouble with. After a few years, my interest evolved towards more elaborate sweaters and shawls. Now I am much more resilient when I knit and long-term projects don't scare me anymore!
In general, accessories are more popular with people who are just starting to knit, and garments such as sweaters are more likely to attract experienced knitters. That said, there is no one type of garment that is more popular than another: Luckily, there is a knitter for every design!
Of all the designs you’ve done, do you have a favorite?
That's like asking who your favorite child is! But without saying it's my favorite, I think the model I'm most proud of is the Stitch Surfer. I think it was the first pattern that put me on the map as a designer: it was published on Knitty.com and I think it became a classic because people are still knitting it today.
Do you see any upcoming yarn trends and knitting styles?
My daughter, who is in her early twenties, has started to get interested in knitting, and she keeps up on fashion trends more than I do. She introduced me to a new trend that is emerging on social networks: clothes knitted with bulky, thick & thin yarns, mixing textures, and an attraction to the imperfect look of knitting. You can find examples of this style on Instagram with @Va1sseau or @sulkknitwear. And, as seen in European cities as well as ski slopes, balaclavas will continue to be very trendy this year!
It seems like having a yarn and design business is demanding enough, what made you decide to add yarns shops to the business plan?
The day we decided to open our first yarn store was the day we realized that no one was better than us at representing our products. The boutiques allow us to distribute our products locally in addition to offering other popular yarns and knitting supplies. This channel is essential to spread our brand and has been so successful that we keep opening more!
Your background is in Art History, isn’t it? How has that influenced your business?
Art history was my "first love", long before yarn and knitting. I’ve always relied on art for my inspiration, along with my life and what defines me, my interests, and my favorite things. Integrating all of these into my collections of yarn was only natural! I am inspired by specific artistic movements, works of art, or artists I admire, but I do not limit myself to pictorial art. I also sometimes find inspiration from actors or famous people who have moved me or provoked a reflection in me.
The creative aspect of our business is what has driven me since day one. I find a creative aspect in almost every step of the process: dyeing yarn, designing patterns, creating and developing our websites, writing texts, and special projects like advent calendars, promotional items, and social networks... If only there were more than 24 hours in a day!
Speaking of which, the amount you do is hard to fathom! Do you have any tips for juggling so many things?
I try to find tools to get organized: applications to manage my different projects, social networks, communication, and automation apps as AirTable, Zapier, DeepL. Marketing is also a passion for me, and I am subscribed to a few newsletters as Checkoutweekly.com, NeilPatel.com and Ariyh.com so I don't miss anything that is going on in this field. It's not always easy: I admit there are days when I get frustrated not having enough time to do everything I want to do. With time and by force of circumstance, I had to learn to delegate and accept that things can't always be perfect.
You can follow Louise Robert and PatricKnits on their individual Instagram accounts and get all the latest news by following the Biscotte Yarns account or by subscribing to the newsletter here!
Types of yarn winding
When you start knitting or crocheting, you discover a new vocabulary around yarn. Here is a visual summary of the different types of yarn windings.
HANK: Loop of yarn, fastened into a continuous circle with ties.
FOLDED HANK: Hank folded in two with a label around it.
TWISTED HANK: Hank twisted into a braid and folded in two (also identified as a "skein")
SKEIN: Many people call the twisted hank a skein but it can also refer to a machine-produced ball.
BULLET SKEIN: Machine-produced ball in a bullet shape.
DONUT: Machine-produced ball in a donut shape.
BALL: Often hand-wound but can also be machine-produced.
CONE: Yarn winded on cone is stretched-thight and usually comes with a lot of yardage.
CAKE: Produced from winding hanked yarn onto a manual ball-winder
In preparation for this article, we did some digging, and several sources diverged on the terminology to use about yarn winding formats: there seems to be some confusion around "skein" and "hank."
Unfortunately, we have not found any information on the Craft Yarn Council website to settle the question but we found this very interesting article on Interweave website. So if you think the information presented here needs to be corrected, please speak up! 😃
Best yarns for summer
We don't wear knitwear in the summer 🤥 🤔 🤭 Well, think again: you must choose yarns made of suitable fibers!
Look for these fibers to enjoy your knits in the warm season:
1️⃣ COTTON - Cotton is soft, lightweight, breathable, and absorbs body moisture, allowing heat to escape the body so you can stay cool Cotton is readily available in most yarn brands, so you have plenty to choose from! 😎
2️⃣ HEMP - Hemp allows air to circulate and absorbs moisture. It is antimicrobial and odor-resistant, meaning you don't have to wash your clothes every time you wear them because they stay fresh longer! 👕 Experiment with hemp yourself with Granola yarn from Louise Robert Collection
3️⃣ SILK - Silk is always a go-to as it can help regulate your body temperature and even has moisture-wicking properties, making it perfect for keeping you dry and comfortable in the summer 🌞
4️⃣ SEACELL - This fiber composed of seaweed and eucalyptus is lightweight and anti-irritant. With Seacell, you get durable, soft, breathable, and moisture-wicking knitwear. If you are curious about this fiber, look for the beautiful Algua Marina in the Louise Robert Collection: an exquisite blend of silk and Seacell! 💦
5️⃣ MERINO WOOL - Merino wool might look odd when thinking about the best fiber for hot, humid weather, but its absorbent fibers help to regulate body temperature and keep you cool. Merino wool is one of the only fibers that trap pockets of air to keep you insulated but can regulate your temperature to keep you comfortable in the heat. Besides, merino wool does not trap body odor which is perfect for summer wear (Mother Nature is so caring!) 😌
Share with us your favorite summer yarns! We can't wait to get our needles out! 😃
How to knit the Bobble Stitch
I’ve always had a secret crush on the Bobble Stitch! I say secret because I wasn’t sure if I’d see them come back around again to the extent that they have but everything old seems to be new again!
I had this one sweater when I was a child that I absolutely loved and wore it to the point of having it darned at least a half dozen times before having to sadly.... throw....it....out😔
It had what I called at the time, squiggles and bubbles. Also known as the Garter Stitch and the Bobble Stitch!
I’ve been wanting to recreate my favorite childhood sweater for a couple of years now and have finally decided to take the plunge! Biscotte has a single ply yarn that has the perfect amount of sheen, softness and halo to create my sweater. It took me a while to decide what yarn to use, but I finally decided on Biscotte’s Albus, which is 50% Merino and 50% Silk, and make my sweater as close to the original as possible.
I feel like Albus needs a discussion of its own first off. This yarn is like nothing I've used before. It feels very soft in the skein, yes, but when it's knit it is softer than soft. It has the ultimate level of squish that only a knitter could dream of having! It’s worth picking up a skein or 20 (tee hee) and knitting with it just to experience how wonderful this yarn is.
Back to the sweater...SQUIRREL!! Or perhaps as a knitter I should say...YARN!!! So this is a new design that will be available for all to knit in the near future and hopefully enjoy as much as I did and now will again! YAH!!! So, I thought I would do a video to show you how the Bobble Stitch for this sweater is knit. It’s very easy and trust me; worth it!!
HOW TO KNIT THE BOBBLE STITCH
As you can see, there’s nothing complicated or boring about this stitch!! Every time I knit one I just can’t help but get a rush of excitement from the absolute cuteness of these bobbles❤️
So that you have the written instructions as well:
Knit to the stitch that instructs you to make the bobble and then kfbf (knit into the front of the stitch, do not drop the stitch off the needle, knit into the back of the stitch, do not drop the stitch off the needle and knit once again into the front of the stitch. 1 stitch has been increased to 3 stitches.)
Turn your work around and purl across the 3 stitches.
Turn your work around and knit across the 3 stitches.
Repeat the last 2 rows 1 more time.
Now you will decrease the 3 stitches back down to 1 stitch: Pass the second stitch over the first stitch and then pass the third stitch over the first stitch. You now have just one stitch again.
Give your yarn a little tug and knit the next couple of stitches at a tighter tension to ensure the bobbles POPS and stays at the front of your work.
When knitting/purling the next row/round there will be a gap before and after the bobble. This is normal; knit/purl the few stitches around the bobble at a tighter tension.
And VOILA!! You have created an adorable little bobble!!
Do you love the Bobble Stitch as much as I do?
What should I knit in the New Year?
What are some of the knitwear trends style experts are seeing for late Winter and early Spring of 2023 and what should you plan to cast on next?
We looked to the Biscotte Yarns pattern library for some ideas on fashion-forward knits to add to your wardrobe now.
KNITTING TIP - How do you do a mattress stitch
Is it normal to see flowers when doing the mattress stitch ??
For some strange and unknown reason, I was able to memorize the mattress stitch technique by visualizing flowers.
HORIZONTAL MATTRESS SEAM:
The two leaves of the flower represent a stitch. When I have to join two rows together (horizontal seam), I visualize a road between the rows and I have to pick up each flower (stitch) by passing the tapestry needle behind them...
VERTICAL MATTRESS SEAM:
And when I have to join two rows together (vertical seam), I imagine that I have to pull on the stem by passing the needle between the two leaves...
I'm sharing this mattress stitch tip hoping it may help visual learner like me!
Mystery KAL 2022
Biscotte Yarns is thrilled to invite you to a MYSTERY KAL!
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First of all, what is a KAL??
Knit Alongs (KALs) are fun, social activities in which a group of knitters all make the same project in the same period of time.
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So what is the MYSTERY part?
Mystery Knit Along (MKAL) is named that way because you don't know what the final result will look like. Parts of the pattern will be released each week, and at the end of the Knit Along, the final design is revealed. For this specific Mystery KAL you will be making a shawl designed by Louise Robert. The name of the pattern is inspired by a song title by Robert Charlebois, Les ailes d’un ange (meaning “the wings of an angel” in French) and that's all the information you will have to begin 😉.
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When does the Mystery KAL start?
The first part of the pattern will be released on Friday, October 14, 2022.
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How do I sign up?
You can purchase either the Mystery KAL pattern alone or the knitting kit including the yarn to knit this mystery project in one of our local yarn store or on BiscotteYarns.com. There will be several color assortment kits available, all named after a Robert Charlebois song.
You are invited to share your progress with other participants in the Ravelry group. If you share pictures on Instagram, please add the hashtag #BiscotteYarnsMKAL22 so everyone can see your work!
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How do I get the pattern parts?
When you purchase the pattern in our local yarn store or through our website, you will receive a first email with a link to download the pattern (always check your spams folder in case you don’t find it in your inbox). The first downloadable document will be a welcome letter including all the details to find our group on Ravelry. Then, every Friday, you will receive an email when a new part is added to the pattern with a link to download it.
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How many parts of the pattern will be sent?
The pattern will be divided into 6 parts, released every Friday on October 14, 21, 28 & November 4, 11 and 18.
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What skill level is the MKAL designed for?
To achieve this pattern, you should know how to knit, purl, increase, decrease, work in the round and read a pattern. You will also find support from one of our teachers, Louise-Hélène, and other group members on the Ravelry group.
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What yarn do I need to participate?
To design this shawl, Louise Robert used the following yarns:Louise Robert DOLCE [100% brushed cashmere; 235 m /50g]
DOLCE COLOR A : 1 skein.
DOLCE COLOR C : 2 skeins.
DOLCE COLOR D : 1 skein.
Louise Robert GRANOLA [70% merino, 30% hemp; 300 m /100g]
GRANOLA COLOR B : 2 skeins.
However, you can use any sport / light DK weight yarn to participate.
ALTERNATIVE YARN OPTIONS
You might substitute the DOLCE by one of the following yarns:
Laura by GEDIFRA (2 balls for colors A and D, 4 balls for color C)
Mohair Cotton de KATIA CONCEPT (2 balles pour les couleurs A & D, 3 balles pour la couleur C)
Dulce by BERROCO (2 balls for colors A and D, 3 balls for color C)
You might substitute the GRANOLA by one of the following yarns:
Kakigori by NORO: 1 ball for color B
Eco Tweed DK by ESTELLE: 2 skeins for color B
Tussah Tweed by BC GARN: 3 skeins for color B
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Do I have to buy the yarn or a kit from you to participate?
Not at all!! You just have to purchase the Mystery KAL pattern to participate and be part of the group. The Mystery Knit Along is open to everyone: the more, the merrier!! 😊
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Is the pattern included in the kits?
Yes the pattern is included in the knitting kit so it is not necessary to buy the pattern separately.
Sweater Construction: different common ways to knit a sweater
There are many ways to knit a sweater. In addition to the many technical aspects of knitting (flat, round, bottom-up, top-down or sleeve to sleeve), there are also different types of construction to form the shoulders and sleeves.
You will find here some explanations and diagrams to understand and recognize the most common styles such as the "yoke", the "raglan", the "set-in sleeve" or the "drop shoulder".
INTRODUCTION
The technical aspects include several ways to knit a sweater. Since the objective of this article is to present the different styles of sweaters, I will not dwell too much on the technical details but it is necessary to understand the basics.
WORK FLAT : This method involves knitting with straight needles and in rows back and forth each piece separately: the front, the back and the sleeves. Then the pieces are sewn together: normally the shoulders of the back and front are joined together, then the sides of the body and the bottom of the sleeve are sewn together. This is a very common method as it was practically the only one before the invention of circular needles!
WORK IN THE ROUND: As the name suggests, this method means that the sweater is knitted in the round on a circular needle. With this method, we avoid the assembly (sewing) of the individual pieces that many knitting enthusiasts hate.
THAT'S NOT ALL! IN ADDITION TO HAVING THE CHOICE OF KNITTING FLAT OR IN THE ROUND, WE HAVE ONE MORE CHOICE TO MAKE:
BOTTOM-UP: When knitting a sweater from the bottom up, you start by knitting the bottom of the body (usually the ribs) and then work your way up, row by row (or round by round) to the underarms. It is at this point that you need to create the holes for the sleeves and the next steps will depend on the style of sweater you are knitting.
TOP-DOWN: When knitting a sweater from top to bottom, you start by knitting the neckline. Then the formation of the shoulders and armholes will depend on the style of sweater you are knitting.
DIFFERENT STYLES OF KNITTED SWEATERS
KNITTING A "DROP SHOULDER" SWEATER
The "Drop shoulder" style sweater is the simplest: the back and front are shaped square (or rectangular for a longer sweater) and the sleeves are grafted directly on each side of the shoulders. The "Drop Shoulder" sweater is more often knitted flat, in pieces that are assembled later. For those who wish to avoid seams, it is possible to knit the lower part of the body and sleeves in the round but the upper part of the body and sleeves will still have to be knitted flat and a seam will be required to finish the sweater.
KNITTING A "SET-IN SLEEVE" SWEATER
This sweater is very similar to the "Drop shoulder" with the difference that the sleeves are embedded in the body: stitches are binded-off and/or decreased in the upper part of the body, on each side of the back and the front to insert the sleeves.
KNITTING A RAGLAN SWEATER
The raglan sweater is a style that features a sleeve that runs diagonally up from the armpits to the neckline. The raglan sweater can be knit flat or in the round from start to finish, from the bottom up or top down! Here's what the raglan sweater looks like from above (if you knit it in the round, from top to bottom, that's exactly what your knitting will look like)
The central elipse represents the neck hole, the blue diagonal lines represent the increases (if knitting from the top down) or decreases (if knitting bottom up). The increases (or decreases) are always done at the same place, about every other row (or turn).
KNITTING A YOKE SWEATER
Like the raglan, the pull yoke is knitted entirely in the round and can be made from the bottom up or from the top down. Unlike the raglan, the increases (or decreases) are spread over just a few rounds around the bust.
This is what the yoke sweater looks like from above (if you knit the yoke from the top down, this is what your knitting will look like):
The blue ellipses represent increases (if knitting from top to bottom) or decreases (if knitting from bottom to top). Unlike the raglan, the increases are not made every other round, but are spread over more or less 5 rounds.
EN CONCLUSION
There are many ways to knit a sweater and this presentation is only a summary of the most common methods. If you are interested in the subject, I suggest the following rbooks: Step-by-Step Instructions for 13 Classic Sweaters by Maggie Righetti and The Beginner's Guide to Writing Knitting Patterns: Learn to Write Patterns Others Can Knit de Kate Atherley
TO DOWNLOAD THIS TUTORIAL CLICK HERE
Knitting tutorial : How to Steek
When knitting stranded colorwork (fairisle), it is often easier to knit in the round, always on the right side of the work. It is also easier to read the pattern if you always working in the same direction, knitting on the right side from right to left.
This is why the "steeking" technique was invented: to be able to knit in the round (in a tube) and to be able to create an opening (or openings) by cutting the knitting afterwards.
The following video tutorial shows you this technique from start to finish and you will also find under this video the written explanations with illustrations to learn how to prepare the steek before opening and how to cut the knitting!
STEP 1: To make a steek, we will normally increase 5 stitches at the location where the opening will be created later. These 5 stitches will then be cut in the center and are usually knitted by alternating the 2 colors of your colorwork. In the example below, our steek is composed of a blue, beige, blue (center), beige, blue stitches:
STEP 2: After binding-off the stitches, use a yarn slightly smaller than your work yarn and using a hook, secure the center stitch of the steek by poking the hook behind the "left leg" of the stitch to the right of the center stitch and behind the "right leg" of the center stitch (identified in red above). Using your hook, grab and pull the yarn behind these two "legs" as shown below:
Repeat all the way to the top to secure the steek opening by pulling one stitch behind each "leg" (shown in red below)...
STEP 3: Finish the first side by cutting the yarn and passing the yarn through the last loop (stitch) and then turn the knitting 180 degrees to repeat the same thing on the other side of the center stitch as shown below (identified in pink)
STEP 4: When both sides of the center stitch are secured, use a sharp pair of scissors for best precision and cut the middle of the center stitch (bottom up or top down doesn't matter, as long as you make sure to cut the center of the stitch).
STEP 5: Once you have cut the steek and opened the fabric, fold the remaining stitches of the steek inside the fabric and secure it with a piece of yarn and a tapestry needle.
Have fun working your steek: the technique may scare you the first time but you will see that it is very easy to do!
Happy Knitting!!
Fluo Flow by Joji Locatelli
Here is the beautiful Fluo Flow shawl, a design by Joji Locatelli published in Vogue Knitting. The pattern shown above was knitted with several varieties of fingering yarns from our hand-dyed collection!
To make this pattern, here are the yarns and colors used
2 skeins of Bis-Sock Nature
1 skein of Bis-Sock Limette
1 skein of Fizwizbiz Bonbon
1 skein of Fizwizbiz Aqua
1 skein of Sirius Purple 419
Get this pattern published in the Vogue Knitting Late Winter 2020 magazine or directly on the Vogue Knitting website by clicking on the following link FLUO FLOW BY JOJI LOCATELLI.
HOW TO SUBSTITUTE YARN IN A KNITTING PATTERN
HOW TO SUBSTITUTE YARN IN A KNITTING PATTERN
To substitute the suggested yarn in a knitting pattern, here's what you need to consider:
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ORIGINAL YARN
FIBERS: Merino wool, alpaca, cotton, hemp…
STYLE: Hairy, woolen, silky, number of ply
COLOR TYPE : Solid, striped, gradient, speckled?
YARN WEIGHT: Lace, sport, fingering, worsted…
LENGTH (YARDAGE) & SKEIN (OR BALL) WEIGHT
THE FINAL USE OF KNITWEAR
Is it a seasonal garment?
Durability (will be worn in shoes?)
Softness (worn on the skin or over a sweater?)
Maintenance (must be machine washable?)
Drape (must be smooth or needs toning).
Was the yarn in the original pattern knitted with larger needles than the recommended size to achieve an openwork effect?
Stranded colorwork (fairisle) ideal with woolen yarn
Must be feltable (choose an untreated wool, i.e. the yarn must not have the mention "superwash")
CALCULATION TO SUBSTITUTE THE REQUIRED QUANTITY
Here is how to calculate the amount of required yarn when using a different yarn than the one suggested in a knitting pattern.
NOTE : If the yarn specifications are not identified in the pattern, Google and Ravelry.com will always be your best allies!
ORIGINAL YARN
SUBSTITUTE YARN
Collection Louise Robert
Algua Marina
Katia Concept
Seacell Cotton
70% silk, 30% seacell
250 meters / 100 grams
Gauge : 20 to 22 sts = 10 cm
Sug needles : 3 / 4 mm
75% cotton, 25% lyocell
120 meters / 50 grams
Gauge: 21 sts = 10 cm
Sug needles : 3 / 3.5 mm
Quantity required to knit the pattern in the chosen size :
5 skeins
See the answer below
…
Calculation of the meters required to knit the pattern :
250 meters x 5 skeins = I need a total of 1250 meters
Calculation of the quantity required in the substitute yarn :
1250 meters ÷ 120 meters = 10.41 rounded to 11 balls
MAKE SURE TO MEET THE SUGGESTED GAUGE
SUGGESTED GAUGE
10 STITCHES & 11 ROWS = 10 CM²
In most patterns, the number of rows suggested in the gauge is not very important since you can easily add or subtract rows to get the required length.
On the other hand, the number of stitches must be the same to get the right knit size (unless you are knitting a shawl or other garment for which the final size is not important) but take note of the following:
NOTE: a different gauge could mean that you will use more or less yarn than indicated in the pattern so be sure to take this into consideration!
TO GET THE PRINTABLE VERSION OF THIS POST, CLICK HERE!
How to cast-on a shawl using the Garter Tab Cast-on technique
This technique is often used to start the knitting of a shawl. It is a way of casting on the stitches around a small tab of garter stitch to avoid the formation of a "hollow" at the base of the shawl, in order to produce a nice uniform border.
This technique is referred as "Garter tab cast-on". That said, you will find my own version of this technique in the following video since I introduced the use of a NEKO cable needle and I use my left needle to pick-up the stitches on the left side of the garter tab. As a picture is worth a thousand words, discover all the details in this video:
Knitting tutorial video - Grafting (or kitchener stitch) method explained
In this knitting tutorial, learn how to sew two rows of stitches together using the grafting technique, also known as "kitchener stitch".
The grafting technique is often used to close the toe of a sock, for example. You will also see it on the shoulders of a sweater or in the assembly of a "granny style" blanket.
Learn to make a hat with a knitting loom (VIDEO in french with ENGLISH SUBTITLES)
Les premiers flocons commencent à toucher le sol, donc il est bientôt le temps de sortir nos ensembles d'hivers. ❄
En même temps pourquoi ne pas tout simplement apprendre à les faire nous-même. Surtout qu'avec le tricotin rotatif, la tuque se fait presque tout seule. Vous allez voir, le tricotin est une très bonne alternative si nous ne sommes pas à l'aise de faire nos projets avec les aiguilles traditionnelles.
Vous aurez besoin:
Le patron: Double Knit Hat with Brim (anglais seulement)
Tricotin rotatif
Crochet à tricotin (viens généralement avec l'ensemble du tricotin)
Crochet à tricot
Marqueurs de mailles
1 échevau - Merino Worsted- Louise Robert Design, Col Illustrée: FONTAINEBLEAU
Voici une vidéo explicative qui vous accompagnera tout le long de votre projet ♥:
Apprendre le tricotin avec Les Laines Biscotte🧵
Avec l’automne et les journées plus froides, on passe de plus en plus de temps à l’intérieur surtout lors des journées pluvieuses, donc c’est une parfaite occasion pour apprendre le tricotin avec nos vidéos comme tutoriels.
Le tricotin est beaucoup plus rapide et facile qu’avec des aiguilles à tricoter classiques et vos projets ne sont pas aussi limités qu’on peut le croire. Vous avez la possibilité de faire des écharpes, des bonnets, des mitaines, et même d’écrire des mots. Le tricotin peut être une bonne alternative lorsque nous avons des problèmes avec le Tunnel Carpien.
Pourquoi ne pas commencer avec un joli ensemble pour apprendre quelques trucs de base sur un tricotin rectangulaire et ajustable?
Pour faire le patron sur la vidéo, vous aurez besoin:
Le patron : Mon premier ensemble
Tricotin (min 22 chevilles)
Crochet pour tricotin (Majoritairement inclut avec le Tricotin)
Crochet 5 ou 6 mm
3 écheveaux de 100g de la Laine Cascade Superwash Wave, couleur illustrée 103
ou
3 écheveaux de 100g de la laine Hagrid
Voici le tutoriel tricotin ♥:
Yarn pooling: what it is and how to manage it
Knitting with artisanal yarns requires certain knowledge. First of all you need to know how to wash hand-dyed yarns and you will find a very detailed article on this subject by clicking HERE.
Once the issue of care is covered, let's talk about what is commonly known in knitting language as "POOLING".
First of all, what is pooling?
The term "pooling" is used when the colors of a semi-solid, speckled or variegated yarn all come together in the same place in a knitted fabric. It is easier to illustrate this concept in a picture with a variegated yarn :
Here is a perfect example of "pooling". The Grounded pattern you see above has been knitted with a two-tone skein (chocolate and moss green). In one part of this knit, at the waist, you can see chocolate and moss green "pooling" appearing, a bit like a liquid where water and oil refuse to blend.
Why is this? Because the combination of "number of stitches and yarn colors" at that particular spot made the chocolate color arrive at the same place on several rows in a row and the moss green followed the rhythm!
And don't think that the pooling effect occurs only in multi-colored yarns, you can see it in knits with semi solid colors as well as in the Autumn Breeze pattern.
"To pool or not to pool"... That is the question!
Some people don't like pooling at all and will do anything to avoid it while others like the effect of pooling so much that some dyers and yarn manufacturers will intentionally dye the yarn to produce this effect.
When well mastered, pooling can be very interesting and add a "wow" effect to some projects, but in other cases it can be annoying and produce an undesired result.
How to minimise pooling?
The best method to minimize pooling is to alternate the skeins (or balls of yarn) every other row if you knit back and forth or every round if you knit in the round. Not only will this way of knitting reduce the "pooling" effect, but it will also ease the transition from one skein to another.
Because even when they come from the same dye lot, artisanal yarn skeins are slightly different from each other: the end of one skein does not necessarily correspond to the exact color of the beginning of the next skein. So to avoid a demarcation in your project, alternating the skeins is the best solution.
Personally, when I knit sweaters I ALWAYS alternate the skeins between them from the beginning to the end. This method allows me to obtain a homogeneous result while preserving the hand-dyed yarns' unique and artisanal look. It's an easy habit to take and after a while it becomes natural!
And if alternating the hanks is not possible?
If you have only one skein for example, you could always alternate using the beginning and the end of the same ball, but if the idea is completely repugnant to you, there is still hope:
Whenever possible, change the way you knit: if you work in the round, try to knit back and forth or vice versa.
Sometimes, a slight modification to the gauge can make things better: try with a needle half a size smaller or larger.
Change the knitting stitch pattern: replace the jersey with a seed stitch for example.
Adding or removing a few stitches could also make enough difference to break the pooling.
Comment tricoter une bordure modulaire
Tout d'abord, qu'est-ce que le tricot modulaire? Le tricot modulaire est un tricot composé de plusieurs formes qui s'imbriquent les unes dans les autres pour former une pièce uniforme, un peu à la manière d'un casse-tête!
La forme des modules peut être variée: carrée, triangulaire, rectangle, losange (diamant), circulaire, spirale... Toutes les pièces qui se tricotent individuellement pour se greffer les unes aux autres forment un tricot modulaire.
Ci-dessus, le modèle Diamonds Are Girls Best Friends utilise les formes de diamants pour une composition de châle triangulaire:
L'utilisation des couleurs aura également un grand impact sur l'aspect final du tricot modulaire. Tricoté en une seule couleur, le "look" du tricot modulaire aura moins d'effet. La possibilité de jouer avec les couleurs et les textures est souvent ce qui motive la création de tricot modulaires.
Dans le châle Diamond are Girls Best Friends, l'utilisation de la Laine Autorayanteᵐᶜ permet d'obtenir des pointes de diamants qui sont définies par la couleur "Melon d'eau" et il en résulte que chaque pointe est unique!
Dans le patron de bas Carousel, on a opté pour une Laine Autorayanteᵐᶜ afin de mettre en relief une spirale qui descend tout le long de la jambe et qui se termine à la pointe du pied:
L'entrelac est également une autre forme de tricot modulaire que vous pouvez observer dans le modèle Patron Entrelac version Biscotte
Il y a différentes façons de réunir les modules ensemble: on peut joindre les pièces à l'aide d'une couture mais le plus souvent, on le fait de façon instantanée en tricotant les mailles de chaque pièce ensemble pour fermer la ligne de jonction.
Par exemple, le modèle de châle Arc-en-ciel ci-dessous est un châle en forme de croissant sur lequel on a ajouté une bordure tricotée en une longue bande perpendiculaire au châle. Cette bordure modulaire vient se greffer au châle en tricotant la dernière maille des rangs endroits AVEC les mailles du châle...
Nous avons le plaisir de vous présenter cette technique à l'aide d'une vidéo préparé par notre professeur Joanne, enseignante tricot dans notre boutique de Saint-Bruno!
Et vous? Avez-vous déjà tenté l'expérience du tricot modulaire?
How to knit the pattern no.2 of the Impromptu Shawl knitting game
Here we have compiled the answers to the most frequently asked questions about the Knitting Shawl Game for the Impromptu Shawl pattern: the shawl pattern that knits with playing cards!
Discover below the instructions to knit the stitch corresponding to card no.2 in the form of a video... Enjoy!
HOW TO KNIT POINT NO.2 - ROW 3
HOT TO KNIT THE POINT NO.2 - ROW 4
A big thank you to Joanne! If you have any questions about any of our knitting patterns, you can always contact us using our CONTACT FORM and select the subject "Knitting patterns". Joanne and our other knitting teachers will be happy to answer your questions!
Vous avez des projets à tricoter pour l'été ?
Fin mai 2020, il fait chaud. Très chaud. À 36,6˚ C, le thermomètre fracasse les records. Dans cette atmosphère tropicale, qu’en est-il de vos aiguilles? Vous les avez rangées? Ou vous persistez?
Curieuse, j’ai tenté de découvrir combien d’adeptes mettent leurs ouvrages de côté en période estivale. Peine perdue, toutes mes recherches sont restées vaines. Aucun des organismes officiels que j’ai consultés[1] ne s’est penché sur la question. (D’ailleurs, si vous avez l’info, s’il vous plaît, partagez-la ci-dessous !)
Qu’à cela ne tienne ! Au fond, ce qui nous intéresse ici, ce sont les passionnées qui ne se laissent pas rebuter par la saison chaude. J’ai enquêté sur ces dernières et j’ai découvert qui elles sont et à quelles matières premières elles ont recours pour s’adonner en toute fraîcheur à leur passion.
Les spontanées et leurs fils
En gros, les tricoteuses/crocheteuses d’été se répartissent en deux catégories : les spontanées et les prévoyantes. Les premières font des châles en dentelle, des petites camisoles légères et d’autres ouvrages plus ou moins longs, mais aérés et qui peuvent être portés tout de suite. Il y en a même qui font leurs propres sandales !
Et qui dit été, dit nécessairement fil de coton. À la succursale des Laines Biscotte de Québec, ce fil est, de loin, le plus populaire en été. « De la fin avril au début septembre, les clientes achètent principalement du coton », confirme Josianne Bélanger, gérante de l’établissement. « Les projets les plus populaires sont les camisoles et les jupes d’été, suivis de près par les châles. »
Si vous travaillez le coton, sachez qu’il existe diverses qualités, chacune présentant des avantages qu’il convient de connaître.
Prenons le coton d’Égypte — aussi appelé coton Mako — développé par Mohamed Ali Pasha, fondateur de l’Égypte moderne.[2] Il est doux au toucher, solide et très résistant. C’est en quelque sorte le « mérinos » des fibres végétales. Il transforme en œuvres d’art vos projets de camisoles de soirée et de châles en dentelle.
Semblable au coton d’Égypte, mais mis au point aux États-Unis au début du 20e siècle, le coton Pima[3] est issu d’une variété de plantes dont les fibres sont longues et lisses. On le dit doux, absorbant et durable. Avec ce fil, les gants de toilette et les linges à vaisselle que vous offrirez en cadeau feront fureur. Cascade Yarns en offre une belle collection qui porte le nom UltraPima
Vous avez entendu parler du coton mercerisé[4] ? Ce dernier est le fruit d’un processus chimique élaboré au 19e siècle par le chimiste anglais John Mercer. Brillant et soyeux, ce fil est parfait pour vos projets de couleur vive. Enfin, le fil d’Écosse, mercerisé deux fois, est le summum de la douceur et du lustre.
Mais pourquoi s’en tenir au coton quand il existe toute une variété d’autres fils estivaux moins connus, mais qui donnent des résultats fort intéressants ?
Mal aimé, le lin[5] est pourtant un fil superbe, frais, antibactérien et lavable merveilleusement adapté à la création de projets d’été comme les sacs de plage et les camisoles sport. Il est, c’est vrai, difficile à travailler et exige qu’on l’apprivoise. On lui reproche, entre autres, d’irriter les mains. Et son apparence en cours de travail en rebute plus d’une.
« Le lin se révèle au moment du blocage. Trop souvent, les tricoteuses se découragent en cours de réalisation de leur projet », déplore Louise-Hélène Brunelle, enseignante à la succursale des Laines Biscotte de Saint-Bruno. « Les femmes regardent leur ouvrage, trouvent que le résultat est inégal et elles abandonnent. Pourtant, quand on le trempe dans l’eau, le fil de lin se détend, perd sa rigidité et l’ouvrage surprend alors par sa beauté. »
Si la rigidité du lin — et parfois même le manque de ressort du coton — vous dissuadent, rien ne vous empêche de vous tourner vers des mélanges. Une laine fine — la mérinos par exemple — couplée à du lin, de la soie ou du coton, donne d’excellents résultats.
De même, la soie, quoi qu’un peu plus lourde, saura si on sait l’utiliser donner une grande richesse à vos projets. Combinée à de la laine, du coton ou du bambou – tous trois plus légers —, elle conférera, entre autres, un lustre incomparable aux ouvrages de couleur vive.
Parlant du bambou[6], cette fibre nouvelle a des propriétés qui la rendent particulièrement intéressante en été. En plus d'être antibactérien, le fil de bambou est absorbant, souple et d’une grande douceur, il est idéal pour la confection de hauts en tous genres.
Les prévoyantes et leurs petits ouvrages
À côté des spontanées, les prévoyantes forment un groupe qui, sans vouloir faire de douteux jeux de mots, n’a pas froid aux yeux ! À la plage comme à la piscine, ces dernières planchent sur leurs cadeaux de Noël.
Elles choisissent bien sûr de travailler avec de la laine, mais elles s’adaptent aux contraintes de l’été en réalisant de petits ouvrages qui ne risquent pas de peser lourd sur leurs cuisses.
Les bas, les tuques, les mitaines ont la cote. Lorsqu’elles s’aventurent dans la réalisation de chandails et de cardigans, elles préfèrent alors les fibres fines qui se tricotent avec des aiguilles de moins de 4 mm.
À quel groupe appartenez-vous ?
Et vous ? Vous tricotez cet été ? Peut-être troquez-vous votre laine et vos aiguilles pour du coton et un crochet ? Partagez vos projets estivaux dans les commentaires. Donnez-nous vos trucs pour profiter à plein de la belle saison et de votre passion.
[1] The National Needlearts Association (TNNA), une association américaine qui fait la promotion du tricot et du crochet auprès du grand public et de l’industrie. (https://www.tnna.org/about/about-tnna). The Craft Yarn Council (CYC), un organisme international basé aux Etats-Unis et responsable, entre autres, de l’établissement des normes qui régissent l’industrie de la laine. (https://www.craftyarncouncil.com) Yarn Council, The Knitting Guild Association (TKGA), un regroupement de tricoteuses/crocheteuses qui fait la promotion de ce hobby à l’international.
[2] http://www.blogsudouest.com/achat-de-textiles-de-qualite-les-qualites-du-coton-degypte/
[3] http://www.ronalpenford.com/qu-est-ce-coton-pima/
[4] https://www.ferme-mohair.com/cms/coton-mercerise.aspx
[5] https://www.dontbesuchasquare.com/linen-yarn/
[6] https://www.toutvert.fr/fibre-de-bambou/